The Laurentian Shield doesn't do subtle. At Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay, the granite walls rise abrupt and unapologetic, and in mid-October the hardwoods set them ablaze — gold birch, scarlet maple, amber poplar — every crevice of colour squeezed between the dark rock faces. The tidal flats in the foreground hold a perfect mirror: the whole fiery ridge doubled in water so still it seems reluctant to give it back.